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20 trends for fall/winter 2014

From Paris to New York, stopping off at London and Milan along the way, it is clear that this coming season is all about contrast. Ambiguity between masculine and feminine, strength and fragility, opulence and grunge, past and present... These contrasts reflect the multiple facets of the 21st century woman and, above all, celebrate her personal style. 
Navy Blue Dries Van Noten Chloé Céline
Dark, intense and classic, next season navy blue is the new black. Made famous by the British Royal Navy, the dark blue adapted itself into the world of fashion and appears as next winter's standout color. Wear it head-to-toe, as seen at Céline and Chloé, or as a heavy, men's coat like those seen at Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander.
From left to right: Dries Van NotenChloé and Céline
Exotic furs Roberto Cavalli Fendi Versace

Exotic furs

The must-have fur coat for next winter comes straight from the wild in-pop colors with disco and grunge flares. As if they were dipped in fluorescent paints and bleached in acid, furs goes two-tone and tricolor, and blacks change to neon yellow and hot pink as brown turns red or green, changing the style codes of urban sophisticates and their classic furs.
From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Fendi et Versace
Tweed Chanel Dolce & Gabbana Haider Ackermann

Tweed

This wool fabric excels in elegance next season and reinvents itself in various forms. Under the legendary influence of Coco Chanel, who feminized the typically masculine fabric, designers created looks in the carded, flexible material at Chanel, Haider Ackermann and Dolce & Gabbana.
From left to right: Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana and Haider Ackermann
Tartan Stella McCartney Céline Saint Laurent

Tartan

From red checks, to green, blue and black plaid, this season the clan beckons as everything from the traditional to the modern appeared printed with Scottish tartan. Think grunge at Saint Laurent and masculine at Céline and Stella McCartney for a hint at how designers gave the kilt fabric their own inspirational twist.
From left ot right: Stella McCartney, Céline and Saint Laurent
Night Owl Dries Van Noten Gucci Vivienne Westwood

Night Owl

Typically a couture embellishment, the ostrich feather appeared for Fall/Winter 2013-2014 in a ready-to-wear version. Soft and light, it punctuated each silhouette with elegance and grace, adding luxury to gowns and separates alike.
From left to right: Dries Van Noten, Gucci,and Vivienne Westwood
Leathery heights Balmain Chanel Emilio Pucci

Leathery heights

As seen at Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Céline, Balmain, H&M and Zadig & Voltaire, leather -coated legs in thigh-high boots and slick stockings is one of the essential trends for Fall/Winter 2013 - 2014. Suede folk versions appeared at Emilio Pucci and Balmain, while a smooth leather was like a second skin at Céline, but it was at Chanel where soft leather stuck to legs as a type of stocking tucked into boots, Karl Lagerfeld explained backstage at the Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-2014 show.
From left to right: BalmainChanel and Emilio Pucci
Grunge Emilio Pucci Rodarte Saint Laurent

Grunge

This season, studied dishevelment is back as designers reinvented the non-conformist vibe of the ‘80s grunge scene. Take a hint of punk, add a little rock, mix in some heavy metal and you’ll have the deliberately grungy appeal of the looks that hit the runway. Studded leather, mesh stockings and plaid shirts felt made us feel as if we had stepped into the wardrobes of Courtney Love and Blondie circa 1989, but only with an added couture feel. This fashion revival is the ultimate in laid-back, rebellious style.
From left to right: Emilio Pucci, Rodarte and Saint Laurent
Ecru Valentino, Isabel Marant Céline

Ecru

A reliable, instant pick-me-up, white invites itself into our wardrobes each winter and this year is no exception. It arrives bearing gifts ina soft, reassuring cream tint, as seen at Isabel Marant, Valentino and Céline.
From left to right: ValentinoIsabel Marant and Céline
Youthful prints Saint Laurent, Burberry Prorsum Givenchy

Youthful prints

With girly hearts, frivolous stars and even childhood characters like Bambi, designers have certainly made a playful stamp on next season. The youthful trend was contrasted with transparency and patent leather at Burberry Porsum, a grunge charm at Yves Saint Laurent and midnight black at Givenchy.
From left to right: Saint LaurentBurberry Prorsum and Givenchy
Oversized shoulders Gucci, Proenza Schouler Balenciaga

Oversized shoulders

For his first show as Balenciaga's Creative Director, Alexander Wang presented coats and shortened jackets with large, rounded shoulders in homage to the oversized cuts from the era of Cristobal Balenciaga, founder of the celebrated fashion house established  in the 1930s. The look carefully softens strict winter silhouettes, also seen on the Proenza Schouler and Gucci catwalks.
From left to right: GucciProenza Schouler and Balenciaga
Beauty of the Day Marc Jacobs, Burberry Prorsum Prada

Beauty of the Day

Fur on bare skin, sheer, lingerie details and vinyl trench coats make up the tarnished wardrobes of the 2013 bourgeoisie. The look brings to mind Catherine Deneuve's character in the film Beauty of the Day, directed by French filmmaker Luis Buñuel, who captured a time when clothes themselves could embody insatiable desires.
From left to right: Marc JacobsBurberry Prorsum and Prada
Tomboy Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren Comme des Garçons

Tomboy

With a retro touch and an air of nonchalance, the feminine-masculine look for next winter seems to have been influenced by Gavroche from Les Misérables. The menswear influences took center stage at many shows for Fall/Winter 2013-2014.At Giorgio Armani blazers without sleeves were worn over velvet high-waisted pants, and at Ralph Lauren Magdalena Frackowiak sported a black cap worn to the side, an oversized blouse under a men's style vest, and pants tucked into boots. The trend was also see at Comme des Garçons where a retro suit was folded, pleated and transformed into an homage to the great Anna Piaggi.
From left to right: Giorgio ArmaniRalph Lauren and Comme des Garçons
Mohair Alexander Wang Balmain Emporio Armani

Mohair

One of the driving fibers for next winter, this fur alternative with its soft blur gives a certain serenity to every silhouette, smoothing contours and surrounding the body in a stylish haze. When worked in volumes as seen at Alexander Wang and Emporio Armani, its feather weight composition helps avoid creating overly heavy shapes. At Balmain, mohair was paired over shiny pants, playing with the contrast between the creamy, soft tops and lacquered pants.
From left to right: Alexander Wang, Balmain and Emporio Armani
Metallic mesh Chloé Anthony Vaccarello Paco Rabanne

Metallic mesh

Seen at Anthony Vaccarello, Chloé and Paco Rabbanne, a medieval trend for next season has developed, featuring armor-inspired mesh pieces. Far from weighing down the look, however, this mesh delicately dresses the chest, hips and legs, hiding parts of the female body, yet subtly revealing others, elusively hinting at nudity.
From left to right: ChloéAnthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne
1940s Gucci Prada Bottega Veneta Dior

1940s

1940s icons Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Veronica Lake and Katherine Hepburn were honored in the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections, especially those shown in Milan. Honing soft shoulders, nipped waists, rounded hips and lowered necklines, designers emulated the hourglass silhouette on their runways, and proved its eternally seductive power.
From left to right: Prada, Bottega Veneta and Gucci
Powder Pink Coats Christian Dior, Miu Miu Carven

Powder Pink Coats

A poetic breeze floated through the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 collections. As designers used vibrant colors for their dresses and pants, their coats hit the runways in softer, delicate colors like powder pink. Sweet and angelic, the English Rose hues transport us to a world of romance and whimsy for next season.
From left to right: Christian Dior, Miu Miu and Carven
100 % Caiman Louis Vuitton Prada Hermès

100 % Caiman

When it comes to leather and skins for next season, head-to-toe crocodile is the way to go. Next winter tames this wildly luxurious trend and succumbs to its seductive style. Wear crocodile leather in its natural form, as seen at Hermès and Prada, or in creamy pastels like the croco seen at Louis Vuitton.
From left to right: Louis Vuitton, Prada and Hermès
Tailoring Yohji Yamamoto, Stella McCartney Maison Martin Margiela

Tailoring

Next winter will see girls stealing their boyfriends' suits, and quite possibly their fathers' as well as oversized and pin-striped versions hit the Fall/Winter 2013-2014 runways. While mafia inspirations wereseen at Stella McCartney and Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Martin Margiela also picked up the trend with suits reminiscent of the those worn in The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald.
Camouflage Michael Kors, Alexander Wang Christopher Kane

Camouflage

With camouflage prints, mountain ranger looks and khaki dominating the runways, the armed forces have certainly earned their stripes with the designers. Inspired by the army's rigour, silhouettes are stricter and designs feature the military's famous camouflage print in various forms. The fashion pack saw it in fur at Michael Kors, silver and purple at at Christopher Kane and crackled at Alexander Wang.
From left to right: Michael KorsAlexander Wang and Christopher Kane
Sailor boy H&M, Ralph Lauren Emilio Pucci

Sailor boy

The fashion set pledges itself to the  Marine cause in navy blue and reefer jackets for Fall/Winter 2013-2014, and accessorizes with the iconic Marine uniform cap for those winter months spent island hopping and soaking up some sun on the yacht deck.
From left to right: H&M, Ralph Lauren and Emilio Pucci

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